If you're looking to get more out of your time on the water, installing a side console kit for aluminum boat setups is one of the most practical upgrades you can do. Let's be honest, standing in the back of a boat while gripping a tiller handle for four hours isn't exactly the height of luxury. It's fine for a quick hop across a small pond, but if you're crossing a lake or spending a full day chasing bass, your back and your arm will eventually start to complain.
Adding a side console completely changes the personality of a basic utility boat. It turns a simple "tinny" into a proper fishing machine. You get better visibility, a more comfortable seated position, and a dedicated spot to mount all those gadgets we love to spend money on.
Why Make the Switch to a Side Console?
The biggest reason most guys look into a side console kit for aluminum boat projects is simply comfort. When you're sitting at a console, you're facing forward, you have a steering wheel in your hands, and you aren't constantly twisting your torso to adjust the engine. It's just more ergonomic.
But it's not just about your spine. Weight distribution is a huge factor in how an aluminum boat performs. When you're running a tiller, all the weight—the engine, the fuel tank, and you—is concentrated in the back 20% of the boat. This makes the bow ride high, which is terrible for visibility and even worse when you're trying to get on plane in choppy water. By moving your "station" forward and to the side, you balance the load, which usually helps the boat track straighter and plane faster.
Plus, let's talk about the dashboard. Trying to look at a fishfinder mounted on a bench seat three feet away from your face is a recipe for eye strain. A console gives you a mounting surface right in front of your eyes for your GPS, sonar, and switches for your bilge pump or lights.
What Actually Comes in a Side Console Kit?
When you start shopping for a side console kit for aluminum boat builds, you'll find a few different variations. Most of the time, the "kit" refers to the physical structure itself—the aluminum housing that you'll bolt or weld to the floor or the side of the hull.
Typically, these kits are made from marine-grade aluminum, often 1/8" thick, so they're lightweight but tough enough to handle someone grabbing onto them when a big wave hits. Some are simple "L-shaped" brackets, while others are more enclosed "boxes" that offer storage underneath.
It's important to note that many kits are "bare bones." This means you get the aluminum shell, and you might have to source your own steering helm, cable, and steering wheel. However, some higher-end packages are more inclusive. You'll want to check if the kit includes: * The pre-drilled console body * A mounting flange for the floor * A windshield (usually acrylic or plexiglass) * A grab rail (don't skip this; your passengers will thank you)
Finding the Right Spot for Installation
Deciding where to put your new side console kit for aluminum boat isn't just about where it looks cool. You have to think about the "rigging." You're going to have cables running from the console back to the motor—steering cables, throttle/shift cables, and electrical wires.
Most people mount the console on the starboard (right) side. There's actually a physics reason for this: the torque of a right-hand propeller tends to tilt the boat to the left. By sitting on the right, your body weight helps counteract that lean, keeping the boat level while you're running solo.
You also need to make sure you have enough room to walk past it. If your boat is narrow, a massive console is going to turn your deck into an obstacle course. Measure the width of your boat's floor and subtract the width of the console kit. If you're left with less than 12-15 inches of walking space, you might want to look for a "slim" or "mini" console kit.
The Installation Process: Is it a DIY Job?
If you're reasonably handy with a drill and a wrench, installing a side console kit for aluminum boat is definitely something you can do in a weekend. Most of these kits are designed to be bolted through the ribs or the floor of the boat.
Securing the Console
You don't want this thing wobbling. If your boat has a wood floor with carpet or vinyl, you'll want to ensure you're bolting into the aluminum stringers underneath, not just the plywood. If it's a bare-hull aluminum boat, you might consider having a local shop tack-weld the console in place for a permanent, rock-solid fit. But for most of us, stainless steel bolts with Nyloc nuts and large "fender" washers will do the trick perfectly.
Routing the Cables
This is usually the part that makes people swear. You have to get the steering cable from the helm to the engine. If you have a flat floor, you can sometimes run the cables underneath. If not, you'll likely run them along the gunwale (the side rail) using cable clamps or a plastic chase to keep things neat.
Don't forget that steering cables have a "minimum bend radius." If you try to make too sharp of a turn, the steering will feel stiff and might eventually snap the internal cable. Keep your turns wide and smooth.
Customizing Your Console
One of the best things about getting a side console kit for aluminum boat projects is that the aluminum is like a blank canvas. You can drill holes for whatever you need.
- Switch Panels: Instead of reaching back to the battery to clip on your lights, install a 4-gang or 6-gang switch panel. You can control your nav lights, livewell pump, and interior LEDs from one spot.
- 12V/USB Outlets: We all have phones and cameras that need charging. Adding a waterproof USB port to the side of the console is a game-changer.
- The Steering Wheel: You don't have to use a cheap plastic wheel. You can get stainless steel wheels with "suicide knobs" that make maneuvering in tight docks a lot easier.
- The Windshield: If the kit comes with a windshield, it'll help block the wind on those cold morning runs, but it also makes the boat look much more "finished."
Managing the Cost
You can find a basic side console kit for aluminum boat for a few hundred dollars, but the total project cost often creeps up once you add the steering system and the controls. A mechanical steering helm and cable will usually run you another $150 to $200. If you're also moving your throttle and shift controls from the motor to the console, you'll need a "control box" and the corresponding long cables, which can add another $200-$400 depending on the brand.
Even with those costs, it's still significantly cheaper than buying a new boat that already has a console. It's a way to breathe new life into an older hull that's still in great shape.
Final Thoughts on the Side Console Upgrade
Transitioning from a tiller to a side console kit for aluminum boat is one of those upgrades where, once you do it, you'll wonder why you waited so long. It makes the boat feel bigger, more professional, and infinitely more comfortable for long days on the water.
Sure, you lose a little bit of open floor space, but what you gain in ergonomics, weight balance, and a place to mount your electronics more than makes up for it. Just make sure you measure twice, buy high-quality stainless hardware, and take your time with the cable routing. Once you're sitting behind that wheel and cruising across the glassy water at sunrise, you'll know it was worth every bit of the effort.